“Hello. My name is Chris and I am addicted to cookbooks. I’ve done so well in 2011, only purchasing Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 that I got for a steal on eBay in January. I’ve heard NPR and the New York Times review the summertime cookbooks with nary a note. I’ve gone to used book sales and have put back cookbooks that were tempting me. I even went to a bookstore that had an amazing cookbook section and purchased just two books of food essays! But the other day I found myself tempted by a cookbook and I fell off the wagon.”
Of course, this is done in jest, but I really do have a lot of cookbooks. I take them to bed with me to read like a novel, propped on a pillow. You’ll know I’m in a cooking mood or planning a big meal if you find a stack of cookbooks next to the bed in the morning! And often I do pare down my collection; I donated several to my library book sale this spring and was pleased to discover I had more room on my cookbook shelves.
So the other day I was remembering a story I recently heard food writer Melissa Clark tell on the NPR radio program, “The Splendid Table.” She spent several summers in France with her family and every day her mother made a pan bagnat for the family’s lunch to take to the beach. This is a delicious sandwich, where you take a loaf of crusty bread, hollow it out, and fill it with a mixture of tuna, vegetables, herbs, olives, garlic, and lemon. When the sandwich was made, her mother would wrap it tightly in foil. A key ingredient to the recipe is to have a seven-year-old child to sit on the sandwich! This melds everything together, the bread and the filling, into a delicious meal.
Clark writes the “Good Appetite” column in the NYTs and her book, In the Kitchen with A Good Appetite: 150 Recipes and Stories About the Food You Love, published last year, brings together recipes and past articles. She is a great food storyteller and is improvisational in the kitchen, making dishes out of just about anything. I can’t wait to read this–and who can resist that grilled cheese sandwich on the cover?
Next week is Festival on the Green. From Sunday to Friday, evenings will be spent listening to free music on the green. This is always a week of picnic salad suppers for us, made ahead of time, so I can grab things quickly to pack when I get home from work before heading out the door again. I never, ever consider a sandwich dinner, but for this week, I plan on making pan bagnat for dinner one evening, sans the seven-year-old; my nephew doesn’t live close enough to sit on the sandwich!
Reprinted from A Good Appetite: Lunch Recipe: Take One 7-Year-Old by Melissa Clark
Prep time: 15 min
Weighting time: 20 minutes
Total time: 35 min
Yield: 2 to 3 servings
2 anchovy fillets, minced (optional)
1 very small garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 8-inch round crusty country loaf or small ciabatta, halved
1 Kirby cucumber or 1/2 regular cucumber
1 medium-size, ripe tomato, sliced
1/2 small red onion, sliced
1 jar (5 to 6 ounces) tuna packed in olive oil, drained
8 large basil leaves
2 tablespoons sliced pitted olives, preferably a mix of black and green
1 hard-cooked egg, peeled and thinly sliced
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the optional anchovies, the garlic, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in oil, whisking constantly.
2. If using a country loaf, pull out some soft interior crumb to form a cavity. If using a ciabatta, you won’t need to eliminate anything.
3. If using a Kirby cucumber, slice thinly. If using a regular cucumber, peel, halve lengthwise, and scoop out seeds from one half. Thinly slice seedless half. Add sliced cucumber to vinaigrette and toss well.
4. Spread half the cucumbers on bottom of bread. Top with tomato and onion slices, then with tuna, basil, olives and egg slices. Top egg with remaining cucumbers and vinaigrette. Cover with second bread half and firmly press sandwich together.
5. Wrap sandwich tightly in foil, waxed paper or plastic wrap, then place in a plastic bag. Put sandwich under a weight such as a cast-iron frying pan topped with a filled kettle, or have a child about 7 years old sit on it. Weight sandwich for 7 to 10 minutes, then flip and weight it for another 7 to 10 minutes (or as long as you can get the child to sit still). Unwrap, slice and serve immediately, or keep it wrapped for up to 8 hours before serving.